Category Archives: Lizard Care

Jackson Chameleon Care Sheet

The Jackson Chameleon or otherwise known as the Chamaeleo Jacksonii can be classified as a medium species of chameleon. The Jackson Chameleon is originally thought to be from three locations: East Africa, Tanzania and Kenya. However, recent studies and sightings have shown that the Jackson Chameleon has also found a home in the Hawaiian Islands as well. There are other areas relative to the area but there are no confirmed reports or not enough evidence to suggest they’re living there as well.


You can often find the Jackson Chameleon in mountain slopes that have a humid environment or where ever there’s significant vegetation. They prefer to live in areas with plenty of rainfall and plenty of vegetation. You can easily identify a Jackson by looking at the horns on top of their head. The Jackson Chameleon’s are classified a mid-size species because of their size and their distinct differences between males and females. The males have three horns on top of their heads.


However, there are three different types of species of the Jackson Chameleon. You have the standard Jackson Chameleon which also known as the Chameleo Jacksonii, the Yellow Crested Jackson Chameleon which comes from Mt. Kenya (otherwise known as the Chamaleo Jacksonii Xantholophus) and finally, you have the Dwarf Jackson Chameleon from Mt. Meru. The Dwarf Jackson is also known as the Jacksonii Merumontanus.


The Chamaeleo Jacksonii Jacksonii species or more commonly known as the standard Jackson Chameleon is by far the rarest species in the US of the Jackson family. They can grow to a total length of approximate 10 inches and are thought to originate from Kenya. You can tell the females and males apart by noticing and examining how many horns they have on top of their heads. The females should be noticeable with three horns while the males only have a single horn on their head.


In the United States, the most common species to have and find in people’s homes is the Yellow-Crested subspecies. While originally introduced from Kenya, it didn’t take long for this species to make its way over to the US and become a popular exotic pet. If they’re kept appropriately and well fed, they can grow up to a total of a whopping 2 feet in length. The male Yellow-Crested Jackson Chameleons will have three horns on their head but their females will have no horns. However, it’s not uncommon to find a female with a single small horn on the nose.


The last species of Jackson Chameleons or otherwise known as the Mt. Meru Dwarf Jackson Chameleon is easy to find and available in the United States but not nearly as common as the Yellow-Crested species. Being the smallest of the Jackson Chameleon’s, they will only reach an approximate length of 8 inches long. You can tell the male and females apart by examining the horns like the other species. The males are noted to have three very long horns that are very narrow in diameter. The majority of the females will have a single narrow horn on the tip of the nose. You’ll also notice that both the males and females have very bright yellow crests on them.


While they’re growing, it’s not uncommon for them to exhibit a dark green pattern on their skin as they get older. The species is known to live for up to 7 years but it’s not uncommon under proper care for them to live up to 10 or more years. The females even under perfect care are not expected to live as long as the males.


One of the most misconceived things about the Jackson Chameleon is that they’re difficult to handle and amateurs should seek the help of professional handlers. Not only that, but a lot of people believe that they’re difficult to keep in captivity, which they’re not. However, it’s been shown that Jackson Chameleons are actually very calm and easy to manage as long as they’re under proper care. It’s recommended that you only buy from a reputable breeder and someone who knows what they’re doing. When Jackson Chameleons were first discovered, they were in fact hard to keep in captivity because of the climate and environment they were used to. Now though, there are plenty of reputable breeders out there with a vast amount of experience with the species and they know how to keep them in captivity.




A Jackson chameleon will do relatively well in a captive environment if they’re provided with the proper amount of care and adequate shelter. However, while they make great beginner’s pets, they’re a bit more difficult to keep and maintain over the panther pets which are slightly easier.


For a Jackson chameleon, it’s best to have a screen sided enclosure that will allow more airflow into the enclosure. Sure, you can have a glass enclosure but the problem with this is that you’re increasing the risk of a respiratory infection or issues if you don’t have a proper adequate airflow system in place. It’s difficult to find a proper glass enclosure that allows stagnant air to come through and to house appropriate sized chameleons. If you’re looking for a recommendation on size, then you should know that bigger is better.


The chameleon will grow over time, so it’s important to make sure that you start out with a larger enclosure than you need as you more than likely won’t have to go back later on when the chameleon has grown and buy a new enclosure. You shouldn’t need anything larger than an 18 inch by 18 inch enclosure. While they can tolerate slightly smaller enclosures, it’s not really recommended that you get one. However, if you really want to start out with a smaller enclosure and buy a larger one later for adults, then juvenile Jackson chameleons can be kept in a 16 inch by 16 inch enclosure.


They can be kept in these enclosures until they’re approximately 12 months old and then they’ll need to be moved into the larger enclosure that I recommended buying in the first place. One of the most important rules of sheltering your chameleons is that they need to be kept separated when they become adults if you own more than one. The reason for this being, they will fight each other if you place them together once they’re adults. Chameleons in general are known to be highly territorial and will fight for any reason.


You may furnish the inside of the enclosure with some small vines and foliage, but that’s not completely necessary or mandatory. This is purely optional for cosmetic reasons. Much like some species of snakes, you should leave some horizontal branches for the chameleon to rest and bask on as well. Some people have different recommendations for the substrate, but it’s better off not to have an kind of substrate at all, as the Jackson chameleons don’t need them.


Some people may like to use paper towels or paper at the bottom of their aquariums, but this isn’t necessary and will be a mess to clean up. It’s easier to clean up the bottom of the tank than it is clean it up with paper lining the bottom.




Like a lot of different exotic pets, the Jackson chameleon will require two different forms of light. The first type of light they’ll need is a light that’s warm that allows them to bask. The second type of light they’ll need is a light that provides their skin calcium, also known as UVB light waves. Without these waves, the skin may not age well and your chameleon’s health will suffer greatly over time. One of the most common novice mistakes that some owners make is trying to put the chameleon directly into sunlight.


While this is a form of natural light, this is the worst thing you can do to your chameleon if you have it kept in a glass enclosure. Sunlight will heat the enclosure to dangerous levels and possibly kill your pet. For basking, you should have a platform, a rock or some kind of surface setup that your chameleon can bask in. A heat lamp for basking should be placed about 8 inches above that basking surface.


A temperature gradient must exist inside the enclosure to ensure survival and longevity of your pet, because they like to be warm during the day and prefer it to be slightly cooler at night. The perfect and ideal basking temperature for the Jackson chameleon will be a nice and warm 85 degrees. However the cool gradient side of the enclosure should be 75 degrees in order to let the pet cool down. The winter weather is a concern for some people but it shouldn’t be, because they can handle extreme cold conditions.


Chameleons are able to bask in the morning immediately after a 40 degree night, and it’s important to make sure that they do have a place to bask in.




In the wild, a Jackson chameleon, as most chameleons don’t commonly run into standing water sources such as a water bowl. For this reason, it’s important that you utilize a technique that’s known as misting. In the rainforest or the amazon, most creatures live off of droplets of rain, since there’s plenty of rain during almost every season in the rainforest. The chameleon will survive by licking droplets of water off of leaves and the side of the enclosure.


All you have to do is take a water bottle, fill it up with moderately warm and clean water and spray the enclosure. Make sure you lightly douse the chameleon as well to keep the humidity levels adequate. Spray any branches or plants that you have placed inside the enclosure and that will be adequate enough for water. Don’t utilize anything such as a waterfall when you’re trying to get your chameleon to drink because they see moving water as a place to leave excrete.


Excrete can carry bacteria and all kinds of infections since parasites are prone to growing in them. If you do notice some excrete near any type of water supply, then it’s best to remove it immediately so that you greatly reduce the risk of bacteria or infection.


As far as food goes, the Jackson chameleon babies need to be fed approximately twice a day while the adults only need to be fed once every other day. They like to eat small things such as crickets, mealworms and wax worms. However, wax worms are highly discouraged because of how fatty they are. They’re more like a delicious snack to a pet rather than a main meal course.


It’s recommended that you use crickets instead for the nutrients they provide and how easy they are to come across. It’s highly inexpensive and easy to find bulk crickets for feeding. Some people get into gut loading with vitamins, but you don’t have to feed your crickets vitamins as a necessity, they come with quite a few vitamins already.




One thing you need to remember about the Jackson chameleons is that they’re mostly display animals. This means that they’re not usually handled a lot and aren’t used to that much attention. Different owners have different experiences handling their chameleons based on their own experiences but in general, most chameleons don’t really like to be handled a lot. A bearded dragon on the other hand can be handled as often as you like, because they’re very friendly and docile creatures (despite having the word dragon in their name).


If you hold them for short periods of time and not too often, the Jackson chameleon can be a very friendly pet. However, if you’re constantly holding the pet and bombarding it with attention, then you’re going to have a rough time getting it to eat, because it could become depressed. Excess handling will cause stress to your animal because it’s not something they’re used to.


It’s up to you to find out what your animal can tolerate and what they can handle but as they’re growing, try not to handle it more than once a week. Once it’s an adult and is used to you, you may be able to get away with handling it for a few times a week, but even then you might be pushing it. Know your limits and keep an eye on the feeding habit to see if there’s any decrease after handling.



Veiled Chameleon Care Sheet

The Veiled Chameleon or also known as the Chamaeleo Calyptratus (or as some people even call it, the Yemen Chameleon) is commonly from Saudi Arabia. It’s a very large species of Chameleon and is typically found in Middle Eastern parts including Yemen, as the name implies. However, recent reports have suggested that the Veiled Chameleon has also made its way state side into the United States and found a home on the island of Maui, Hawaii. You won’t find this pet wondering the city streets or out and about in a place without mountains though.


The Veiled Chameleon prefers to live in a place with coastal mountains and high slopes. Due to the nature of the Chameleon and how they survive, they prefer to live in an area that experienced a lot of rainfall. Year round water and vegetation is a must to ensure a healthy life and that they live as long as possible, which is why they prefer the coast and rainfall areas. One of the easiest ways of identifying a Veiled Chameleon is to examine the top of the head, where you can notice a helmet type texture.


Males will grow up to be a total of 2 feet in length and females will be slightly shorter than that, topping out at only 18 inches. However, while this isn’t as long as some exotic pets, it’s one of the largest chameleon species on the planet. Even more impressive that they can reach this kind of length in captivity, because most captivity exotic pets are small and their height is slowed down by being in captivity. There’s not one specific color that can be attributed to identifying a veiled chameleon, because the adults seem to exhibit a whole rainbow palette of colors. You might find some veiled chameleons that have differing shades of green, orange, blue, yellow, brown, black or other colors as well.


The amount of spots, stripes, blotches and spotted patterns on a veiled chameleon will differ from pet to pet as well. They all seem to have their own unique style and look to them. One of the most interesting and unique things about the veiled chameleons is that they can be sexed the day they hatch. Most animals need to wait until their mid juvenile or entering adulthood but not the veiled chameleon. When the males are hatched, you’ll notice that they have a small nub on the back of them which is called a tarsal spur. Females will all lack a tarsal spur.


As far as color differentiation, the males of the species tend to show off far more colors and grow into more colors than the females do. The average life expectancy for the males can be anywhere from 6 to 8 years depending on the type of care provided. Females won’t show off as many colors nor will they live as long either. They will only live an average of 4 to 6 years because of how their reproduction works. Even if you don’t actively breed them, they’re always producing infertile egg clusters.


This will take a lot out of the females and it drains their energy fast. After a while, constantly producing infertile eggs while not breeding will take its tool and progress the age of the pet faster than the males. It’s relatively easy to handle a veiled chameleon in captivity and some experts have suggested that they’re a difficult pet for any beginner. They’re not very demanding and actually very basic when it comes to their needs in captivity. If a veiled chameleon is purchased from a reputable breeder who knows what they’re doing, they’re very calm and easy to work with.


It used to be difficult to find veiled chameleons that weren’t caught out in the wild and they kept dying rather quickly in captivity. However now days, as breeders have more success, it’s becoming increasingly easier to find a private breeder in the states.




If you provide a chameleon with consistent care and adequate cage maintenance, then you should have absolutely no problem keeping a veiled chameleon in a captive environment. Sure, they may not be native to being captive if they weren’t bred, but they’re generally very docile and easy animals to handle. The very first step you’ll want to take to ensure the longevity and happiness of your chameleon is the enclosure that it will be living in. It’s like picking out your own home for your own peace of mind and quality of life.


While this is purely just a recommendation, the best type of enclosure for a veiled chameleon has been shown to be a screen sided enclosure. This is because the screen allows increased airflow to come into the enclosure and there are numerous reasons as to why this helps a chameleon grow healthier. While you can use a glass tank, it’s more difficult to find an appropriate glass tank for a veiled chameleon because of their setup. Glass tanks weren’t really bet for these kinds of pets and it’s hard to create a natural air flow inside of the enclosure without doing any kind of custom modification such as drilling.


Also, it’s been shown by recent studies that poor airflow or glass enclosures for chameleons can actually create respiratory issues such as an upper respiratory infection. These are definitely not cheap to fix and you could actually lose your chameleon as a result of it, so it’s best to play it safe with a screen sided enclosure. While you can get away with a smaller enclosure, the generally rule for chameleons is that bigger is in fact better.


To measure the ideal size for chameleon, you want to house an adult male in a screen enclosure that would be around 2 feet by 2 feet and 4 feet tall. They can tolerate smaller enclosures but the word tolerate should never be used and you shouldn’t sacrifice space because the quality of life of your pet will greatly suffer if you do. If you have a female veiled chameleon, you’re more than likely going to want to go with something slightly smaller but larger such as an 18 inch by 18 inch enclosure.


Storing juveniles and babies is a bit easier because they don’t require a high height. However, it’s best to start off with a large enclosure because after about 8 months of growth, they’ll need to be moved into enclosures that will suite their growth and size better. Some say that it’s better to start off small but this is an unnecessary cost in my opinion. Also, if you’re raising multiple veiled chameleons at once, it’s far better off to keep them separated because they will fight each other until they reach sexual maturity.




The actual housing of the structure can be different varying to your personal tastes and how much you want to spend on the enclosure. Some people want a basic enclosure with basic bare bottom substrate tastes and some people want to go extravagant. For ideal conditions though, we want to create textures and areas in the enclosure for the chameleon to hide in. For this reason, you can pick up some cheap decoration vines or foliage so that the chameleons have something to walk around on or hide under. You’ll find that the veiled chameleon likes to hide a lot.


Also, you might want to consider some stones or horizontally laid perches so that your chameleons have a place to bask on. You want to make sure to avoid the risk of a fire that your plants are plastic and aren’t made from any kind of silk material. It’s best to check to make sure that each plant is nontoxic and plastic anti-flame plants seem to work the best. It’s not common for plants to catch flame as the heater usually isn’t right next to the plants, but I’m sure it has happened before, which is why it’s essential to be careful when setting up your enclosure.


Some of the most commonly used plants are the fichus, the schefflera, the hibiscus and the pothos. These are examples of live plants that may be used inside of the enclosure because they provide two direct benefits. First, they allow the chameleon to have a place to hide and they also help with the moisture inside of the enclosure.


A lot of people like to argue over whether the veiled chameleon should have any kind of substrate or not and the general consensus across most seasoned owners seems to be a resounding no. The risk of impaction is too high among most chameleon species and it’s better off just not to have any at all. The only downside to that is, you have to regularly clean the bottom of the tank which is relatively easy with some soap water and a rag.




A veiled chameleon will require approximately two forms of light. They’ll need a heating light for the first part of the day so that they can bask and regulate their body temperature. You can also use heating rocks, heating tape, emitters, etc. to help. The next thing they’ll need is a highly specialized fluorescent bulb that emits UVB light waves. The reasoning for this is because out in the wild, the natural sunlight that they’re used to in the wild is what usually provides calcium for their skin that also helps with metabolism.


However, when in captivity, they’re usually surrounded by glass, so that’s why a special UVB light is required to provide them the appropriate level of calcium. If they don’t get this, they’ll end up with a disease known as Metabolic Bone Disease. A lot of people like the appeal to bulbs that provide both but there have been studies that show Veiled Chameleons are able to actually regulate their body temperature and their UVB exposure independent from each other.


Placement for both of these lights should be ideally placed directly on top of the enclosure. When you’re setting up the positions for these lights, you want to make sure that both lights are clear of any perches by at least 6 inches, to reduce the risk of burning a perch or plant in the enclosure. Because veiled chameleons have the ability to regulate their own temperature, it’s highly important to provide them a temperature gradient in their enclosure, which means one area must be a perfect basking warm and one area must be cool enough to rest in.


The best and ideal temperature gradient will range from 72 to 80 degrees. The reason for having a basking bulb directly above a basking spot is because that particular spot needs to be relatively warm. Placing the basking bulb here should raise the temperature to 90 degrees, which is an ideal temperature for veiled chameleon basking. This is the best ideal arrangement for achieving the best gradient and providing the highest quality of life within your enclosure for your chameleon.


The most important thing that you want to watch for is to make sure that the lower part of the enclosure is getting cooler temperatures because that heating gradient is absolutely essential. However, when it comes to night time, you’ll be pleased to know that chameleons generally don’t require a heating lamp because they adapt to the lower temperatures relatively well. As long as the temperature even in the winter stays above the high 40s, you won’t have much of an issue and no type of heat is needed.


While the temperature can be adapted to, you need to make sure that they have a place to bask at in the morning. Also, something important to remember if you require any kind of heating source at night to help keep your chameleon warm is that you want a heating source that doesn’t emit light. This is absolutely essential because they need a perfect lighting cycle or else they can become confused and stressed by the amount of light they’re constantly getting.




Veiled chameleons are arboreal, which means that they generally aren’t going to encounter a lot of standing water such as a dish. This might create a problem for some chameleons because they won’t recognize the water dish as a form of hydration. However, a lot of owners have said that their pets eventually figure it out before dehydrating to death but that’s a risky venture to take.


The way to combat this and what you can do is a process called misting. The problem is, in the wild, they’re not used to any kind of water sources except for the water that falls off of leaves when it rains. They live in rainforest type environments and always find all of their water when it rains, because the water will drop down onto the leaves and drop to the ground. Chameleons like the veiled chameleon will lick the leaves.


To mist your enclosure, all you have to do is simply spray your chameleon and the sides of the enclosure twice a day so that it can lick the sides of the enclosure to get its water supply. This will be much easier as well if you have leaves or perches in your enclosure, because you can mist the leaves and it’ll be just like its back in its habitat environment. Some people have an advanced drip system in place that can be rather expensive or inexpensive system to set up depending on your experience in engineering, but it’s easier just to mist the enclosure.


You might be thinking, why not just add a waterfall? The reason being is a veiled chameleon sees moving water as a source to defecate in. We see toilets as the main source of an area to leave our excrete in; well that’s what chameleons see running water as. If you try to use a waterfall as a means of hydration, it won’t drink from it; it’ll only create constant messes.


You definitely don’t want your chameleon drinking from an excrete filled waterfall because it’ll be filled with bacteria and as a result, it could grow an infection inside of it, or even worse, a parasite. Parasites are extremely hard to get rid of and can be extremely costly. A good amount of the time, they’re never fully vanquished and end up doing significant harm to the pet.


Veiled chameleons like to eat crickets generally. The great thing about crickets is, they’re very cheap to buy and they’re incredibly easy to find in bulk. They’re the most common item to feed house hold exotic pets because they’re almost universally accepted by most pets. When your pet is growing or if they’re juveniles/babies, then they’ll need to be fed once a day. Some owners report that feeding them twice a day has helped the growing process but be careful not to overfeed them.


However, the ideal process is to only feed them once a day. Once they grow into adulthood, you only have to feed them once every other day. Keep an eye on the eating habits of your chameleon and make sure they’re eating all the food you feed them. If they’re not, then cut back on the amount of food they’re eating, because that food will just sit there and rot if they don’t eat it. Again, parasites and bacteria can form on uneaten food.




While a veiled chameleon is growing, you’ll notice that they’re starting to lose their skin. Don’t be alarmed, because this is a completely normal process and it’ll happen at very frequent intervals. The intervals at which they shed their skin will increase over time as the chameleon ages. However, you won’t have to worry about cleaning up the old skin because a chameleon (as most animals that shed) will actually eat their own skin.


The reasoning behind this is, in the wild, leaving any trace of your skin behind is a dead giveaway to predators that you were just there. So like a Special Operations soldier, the chameleon has to leave no traces behind and will eat its own skin as its shedding. As a juvenile, you can expect a veiled chameleon to shed every 4 weeks, but sometimes they can shed every 3 weeks. This rate will vary depending upon how quickly or slowly they’re growing.


As an adult, different owners have reported different rates of shedding but the entire process may only take just a few hours from beginning to finish. The one thing you’ll notice about your chameleon before it sheds is that it may start to look a little bit milky as the skin particles on top begin to die off. Also, it’s not uncommon for a chameleon as many other animals that shed to become disinterested in whatever food you leave them. Don’t be alarmed if they don’t eat when you put food into the enclosure, because they might just be shedding, if paired up with a milky looking texture.


As an adult however, it’s not uncommon for the shedding process to take days in some cases because of the length of the body and some areas of the chameleon are difficult to get off. You’ll notice the chameleon scratching away at their own skin or trying to use corners of the enclosure or branches inside the enclosure to help scratch the skin off. Usually, they can remove the skin all on their own, but in rare cases, they might need help and need a mist. You don’t normally have to do it, but mist your chameleon right before the shedding process starts to help ensure a smooth transition.




Handing veiled chameleons is relatively easy because they take being handled very easily. They’re very gentle and won’t try to scratch the hell out of you if that’s what you’re worried about. However, they’re not very good in social situations and are very prone to stress so if you frequently handle a chameleon, he may become stressed or scared. When a veiled chameleon is stressed out, they won’t eat and they’ll spend all night hiding under whatever area is available.


Make sure that you are washing both of your hands and use sanitizer before and after handling a veiled chameleon. This is a good idea for handling any kind of animal because there are sensitive oils on your hands when they’re not washed, and not only that, but your hands have been a thousand other places during the day. Your hands are carrying a load of bacteria that can be transferred right over to the pet if you’re not careful.




Veiled chameleons are what are called oviparous breeders meaning that they carry eggs instead of getting pregnant. What happens is, a female will lay eggs in batches (or clutches) after the mating ritual is complete and then it can take a predetermined time from laying to hatching. The amount of eggs in each cluster will highly depend on a wide variety of different factors such as how much mating has been done, the general health of the female, the size of the body and other factors as well.


You can expect to see anywhere from 10 to 80 eggs in a single clutch. If you notice a female is creating eggs or you’re trying to actively force two veiled chameleons to mate, then you need to setup a nesting area. The female needs a nice and warm place to lay and nurture her eggs. If you want to go with the easiest and cheapest option, all you need is a small tub or tray with sand in it. All you have to do is place this little tub in the bottom of the enclosure and if she’s laying eggs, she’ll more than likely use it.


What you need to remember is that the sand needs to be relatively deep so at least 4 inches deep. The sand needs to be deep enough for a female to lay her eggs in, so keep that in mind when making your tray. You also need to make sure that a female is at an optimal mating age as well, because different species of animals have different adulthood ages at which successful mating can be achieved. For veiled chameleons, you need to make sure that the female is at least 1 year old or slightly younger (some people have seen results with this).


Also, the female needs to be relatively in good health and preferably not shedding or showing any signs of depression. Without being in a great state of health, the chances of successfully mating are diminished horribly. When picking a partner or a mate, you need to make sure that the male is about equal size to the female.


Don’t expect a male and female to automatically start mating though, because sometimes they’ll fight instead. Unfortunately, veiled chameleons are known to be highly aggressive when confronted by another chameleon and will be very territorial. If the female shows any signs of hesitation or aggression towards the male chameleon, it’s advised to break them up immediately. Sometimes, owners have reported signs of hissing or even clawing at potential mates which leads to a territorial fight.


Once the mating process is finished if she is receptive (this should be rather obvious), you should separate the two and allow her to lay her eggs. Unlike some of the quicker animals, a female veiled chameleon may lay eggs quickly or within the month, so it’s basically just a waiting game to see when the eggs are going to be laid. Make sure that your female is getting extra calcium to ensure that you have a better chance of successfully breeding during this time.


The ideal and best egg temperature to shoot for should be 85 degrees to keep them nice and warm. Healthy looking eyes will be bright white while unhealthy eggs that have a low chance of hatching will start to turn a bit yellowish. It can take anywhere from 4 to 9 months for the eggs to hatch. 

Collared Lizard Care

Sexing Collared Lizards

Young collared lizards males and females look very similar. As they mature males become larger that the females and often more colorful. You can also determine gender by looking at the enlarged preanal pores that males have.


Do not house more than one male together because male collared lizards can be very territorial. Collared lizards can grow quite large and need a sizable enclosure to be able to roam comfortable. A tank of at least 30 gallons for a single lizard will be required.

For temperature, 70° F at the cooler end and 90° F at the warmer end with a basking area of between 100° F – 110° F. Rocks in the basking area will allow them to regulate their temperature correctly. Even at night the temperature should not drop below 70° F. Either undertank heating or bulbs can be used. Humidity should be kept low at all times.
For substrate sand like calci-sand or natural play sand is best.
A hide can help the collared lizards control temperature and avoid stress. Rocks for baskings are useful as well but climbing elements are not required.
The enclosure should be cleaned weekly to remove waste.


Young Collared Lizards should be fed daily, as they grow you can move to feeding every other day. The bulk of their food should be in the form of crickets, meal worms, wax worms and other gut loaded insects. A calcium and multi-vitamin product can be used as well as directed by the product. Be sure the insects are sized correctly to avoid harm to your lizard. Remove any insects that go uneaten.
Clean water should be provided at all times.